![]() It's too short for the original battery tray, but I know they are great batteries so I think we'll keep it unless someone has a better idea for a battery that matches the original "longer" size battery to fit the tray? I plan to cut a piece of wood (painted black) to wedge in the open portion of the tray bottom to secure the battery from moving. ![]() ![]() Went to Advance Auto and specified a 1965 T-bird and we bought a red top optima. The car ran fine when parked in the garage. Question 1: Needed a battery.the car hasn't run for over a year and the old battery was dead (out of the car).seemed to be the wrong size battery anyway (too small). I didn't see a search engine, so here goes: Working on my sister's 1965 Ford Thunderbird 's been in the family since new! So, I suppose you might say it's a one owner car. ![]() As many of you may know we sign up for forums to share information about the cars we love. Hey guys and gals.I have a '96 Thunderbird 4.6 and recently I have been having issues with the transmission.Ran the codes and I forget what the code actually was but in other words its the NSS.I replaced that with a brand new one and it seemed to have fixed the issue for the most part.Being as before it wasn't switching gears and would be stuck in either first or second.Couldn't even manually shift it either.So the other day I was going to a buddys house and sure enough it started doing the same thing again.but seems like it was stuck in second (limp mode).Then it kinda went back to "normal" again after heading back home to drop the car off.So I decided to still drive it to my buddys and see what else its doing and it was up and down shifting like crazy.Up hill it was doing all sorts of weird shifting/hesitation and whatnot.and regular driving not under such a load would be so so but the rpm's would drop but then hit the gas it would rise and then would kick in.before i had replaced it the tranny would do kind of the same thing like it would feel like being stuck between gears and you would let off the gas and it would feel like it would disengage and engage when you throttle again.I ran the codes again and it showed the same trouble code as before as well.I know my explanation isn't the best but the best as I can describe at the moment, lol.The old NSS looked like the pins were burnt and from what it was either pins 1,2 and 3 or just 1 and 3.The connector looked fine and not melted or anything as the wires look in good shape and not burned or melted away.Oh and I should also note before I replaced the old NSS, when I would reverse, it would burn out my turn signal fuse and there would be static noise coming from the speakers as well.Same thing again with the static coming from the speakers when I reverse.That concerns me being as other threads I read, it was related to a faulty NSS.So I guess my real question right now is do you guys think that it may be grounding out at the connector to the NSS? Maybe not getting a good contact on one or a few of the pins? What else should I check out before I just go out and replace it and having it happen again? Im going to try and clean the connector and somehow get something to clean each pin to make sure it has good contact.Being as I dont have a manual for the car and they are kinda pricey, I kinda want to get opinions at the moment and so on.Thanks in advance for your help.I'm new to this forum.
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